The Generous Squire

The Generous Squire in Murray Street is apparently the only fully functioning microbrewery in the CBD, turning out two changing seasonal brews to go alongside the James Squire range.


It is located at the corner of Shafto Lane and well set up and a good number of places to sit, eat and drink – inside and outside, upstairs and down.

We dropped in for lunch earlier this week and headed up the stairs and found a comfortable spot to set up.


Reasonably, beer is the thing here but they also have a smallish wine list. From it we ordered a bottle of La Vielle Ferme Cotes du Ventoux rosé, a middle of the road French wine with some rose petal and citrus notes on the nose, and a dryish palate showing grapefruit and raspberry hints.


The food is geared towards traditional pub food dishes – burgers, steak sandwiches, fish and chips, ribs, salt and pepper squid, risotto, lamb shanks and steak; nothing particularly innovative, but simple, basic comfort food.


We decided on the seafood board and an accompanying salad.


The board came with salt and pepper squid, prawn skewers, fish cakes and crumbed fish – accompanied by a mound of caper berries, toasted baguette, and a small dish of onion relish.


The calamari was well cooked, very tender and with a light batter of pepper and salt. It could have been spiced up a notch I thought.


Prawns cooked with their tails were tender, sweet and juicy, with a mild spicy flavour. A couple of small pieces of barramundi were encased in crumbs, moist inside, pretty well done, maybe a tad under seasoned.


The fish cakes had a hint of coriander but were relatively bland – a little spice would have done wonders. The onion relish didn’t inspire – bland, not nearly enough seasoning and not really cooked to a caramelized stage.


Our warm salad had a lot of crunchy green beans, nicely cooked and collapsing cherry tomatoes, and a few cashews scattered throughout; a hint of garlic lifted the dish. This was a good salad and accompaniment.


The food at the Squire is reasonable – basic pub grub, nothing fancy, pretty well cooked and presented – good to accompany a few beers, but nothing out of the ordinary. It has its niche and turns out what that market requires. If you are looking for a beer, something filling, and a pleasant location, the Generous Squire could be the place for you.

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