A fabulous new entrant into the Perth food and drink scene, Harvey Leigh’s has sprung up in place of Enriques on Beaufort Street, Highgate. A wine bar, bistro and wine store it is the brainchild of noted sommelier Dan Wegener and will be joined in coming months by Harvey Leigh’s Public House, alongside where Beaufort Local once stood.
Open at the moment for breakfast and lunch Wednesday through Sunday, and dinner on Friday and Saturday it is a sleek and inviting space – with tables on the footpath out front for sunny days – which it was when we dropped in during the week. My dining chum brought his little dog along and he (the dog) was made to feel at home with a bowl of water quickly brought out.
We were made to feel at home too as we looked over the snappy wine list before settling on a bottle of 2017 Each Other’s Wine Company rosé – from Frankland River this blend of Semillon and Tempranillo is a joint venture of owner Dan and Jo Perry from Dormilona. It has a lovely apricot hue. A little funkiness on the nose at first with raspberries and nectarines shining through. The palate has notes of lime marmalade, berries and finishes crunchy and dry.
As to the food – the breakfast menu includes mushrooms on toast with tarragon, organic ham with soft eggs and Provencal beans, grilled cheese on toast and, our choice, cured trout rillettes on brioche with poached eggs and a side of avocado.
The lunch menu had cabbage stuffed with pork and carrots, slow cooked lamb shoulder with candied carrots as well as the two we opted for – smoked beets with marinated feta, zucchini, and peas, and salmon gravlax.
The beets certainly had a smoky flavour – steamed before smoking they retained a wonderful crunch, while the feta provided a creamy sharp contrast. Nice one.
The salty, smoky rillettes, pimped up with herbs and spices, sat on a couple of slices of crisply toasted bread, along with two poached eggs, oozy and perfectly cooked. Great breakfast dish.
And the gravlax – juicy, succulent matchsticks of salmon lay across the plate sprinkled with rock salt and topped with paper thin sliced pickle – excellent.
Harvey-Leigh’s, named for Dan and wife Katie’s son, has really upped the quality and style of this part of Highgate – well put together wine list, great food and outstanding décor and decoration. Sure to be a huge hit –and even more so when the extension next door is complete.