Ethos Deli and Dining Room, the newest venture from dynamic duo Melissa Palinkas and Susan Whelan, opened in late August just along George Street, East Fremantle, from their other very successful restaurant, Young George. Based on the classic New York style delicatessen, Ethos has a focus on seasonal produce with low food miles, a philosophy of zero waste – for example, straws are made from wheat, all bottles will be recycled in house, packaging is biodegradable and compostable – and of course they carry on a nose to tail approach to butchered animals, using every part.
Charcuterie and smoked small goods are made in house; Dean Buchanan, cocktail curator, has created outstanding drinks from kitchen waste – apple peel, apple cores, banana skins, citrus peel – as well as a range of non-alcoholic drinks using spent whey from yoghurt and sour cream to get fermentation underway. Preserves and pickles, too, are all created in place.
And the wine list features all WA regions, with the selected wines a mix of minimal intervention, natural, organic and all produced through sustainable viticulture practices. LS Merchants, Galafrey, Cullen, Fairbrossen, Blind Corner, Amato Vino, all feature along with many more.
Invited along to the opening, we were plied with a selection of the food to be offered starting off with a salute to Melissa’s Hungarian heritage – Langos, a fried flatbread, served with crème fraiche, caviar and salted lemon skin. This would be a brilliant breakfast/brunch dish.
Onto some of the small goods – coppa, country terrine, all served with a moist, but dense, soda bread. Then a stunning lamb tartare, chopped lamb with beetroot, dill and shallots, topped with an exquisite beetroot tuile and puffed buckwheat.
The BBQ Romanian style tenderloin steak, tender and succulent, came with onion and Jewish influenced gribene sauce.
A plate of Palmero peppers, lentils, pepita and tomato braise, was both colourful and delicious.
And another real highlight – BBQ cabbage, pickled apple, bacon and caraway – something special.
Finished off with a delightful apple torte, it was a brief but fulfilling journey through some of the exceptional food on display at this outstanding new addition to George Street.
With the dining floor upstairs and the ground floor hosting the deli, offering continental rolls, a BBQ Coney Island frank and a Kingfish lox which will be on my radar when I get back, Ethos is sure to be another success from Melissa and Susan.